DIAMOND SHAPE
Virtually all diamond cuts sold for use in jewelry are one of ten round or fancy diamond shapes. Following is an introduction to each shape, including information on how to determine the best combination of size, color, and clarity for your needs. View our side-by-side comparison of each diamond shape to see how shape affects apparent size as well.
The Amore Round Diamond
The round cut diamond is the most popular diamond shape, representing approximately 75% of all diamonds sold. Due to the mechanics of its shape, the round diamond is generally superior to fancy diamond shapes at the proper reflection of light, maximizing potential brightness. Virtually all round diamonds are brilliant-cut, meaning they have 58 facets (57 when there is no culet).
The round diamond began to rise in popularity in 1919 with the publication of Marcel Tolkowsky's thesis "Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond". Tolkowsky's work described the ideal proportions of a round cut diamond for maximizing light return (or brilliance) and dispersion (or fire). The original Tolkowsky specifications (53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.50 crown angle, visible culet) have since been modified as the cut mechanics for round diamonds have perfected over time. These theoretical advancements, as well as advancements in technology (such as the use of lasers in diamond cutting), have been adopted by diamond manufacturers to produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today in well cut round diamonds.
The round diamond began to rise in popularity in 1919 with the publication of Marcel Tolkowsky's thesis "Diamond Design: A Study of the Reflection and Refraction of Light in Diamond". Tolkowsky's work described the ideal proportions of a round cut diamond for maximizing light return (or brilliance) and dispersion (or fire). The original Tolkowsky specifications (53% table, 59.3% depth, 34.50 crown angle, visible culet) have since been modified as the cut mechanics for round diamonds have perfected over time. These theoretical advancements, as well as advancements in technology (such as the use of lasers in diamond cutting), have been adopted by diamond manufacturers to produce the incredibly brilliant cuts we see today in well cut round diamonds.
The Amore Princess Diamond
Princess cut diamonds have four sided pyramid shape and is similar to one half of the octahedron rough stone from which a princess diamond is cut. This similarity allows two equally sized princess cut diamonds to be cut from the same rough stone with relatively little waste (roughly 60% of the weight of the original rough stone is retained after cutting).
Carat for carat, the crown surface area of a princess cut is about 10% less than a same-weight round diamond. However, the corner to corner measure of a princess cut is typically 15% greater than the diameter of a same-weight round diamond, creating the illusion of greater size.
The princess is traditionally a square cut (four sides of equal length). However, many princess cut diamonds are slightly rectangular, though this is often hard to detect. All other things being equal, the more rectangular a princess cut diamond. Any length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. If the princess will be set with side diamonds, a length to width of 1.05 - 1.08 may still look square, as the side diamonds will create the illusion of greater width in the center stone.
Carat for carat, the crown surface area of a princess cut is about 10% less than a same-weight round diamond. However, the corner to corner measure of a princess cut is typically 15% greater than the diameter of a same-weight round diamond, creating the illusion of greater size.
The princess is traditionally a square cut (four sides of equal length). However, many princess cut diamonds are slightly rectangular, though this is often hard to detect. All other things being equal, the more rectangular a princess cut diamond. Any length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye. If the princess will be set with side diamonds, a length to width of 1.05 - 1.08 may still look square, as the side diamonds will create the illusion of greater width in the center stone.
The Amore Oval Diamond
Oval diamonds are a modified brilliant-cut (like virtually all round cuts). Because the two shapes possess a similar fire and brilliance, the oval is an ideal choice for a customer who likes the look of a round diamond, but wants something more unique. Oval diamonds have the added advantage of an elongated shape, which can create the illusion of greater size.
Preferences vary on how narrow or fat an oval cut diamond should be, so choose what appeals to you personally (though a length to width ratio of 1.35 - 1.50 is considered the classic oval cut). A slightly thinner cut may look most appealing in a setting where the diamond is flanked by side stones. Oval cut diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
Preferences vary on how narrow or fat an oval cut diamond should be, so choose what appeals to you personally (though a length to width ratio of 1.35 - 1.50 is considered the classic oval cut). A slightly thinner cut may look most appealing in a setting where the diamond is flanked by side stones. Oval cut diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
The Amore Marquise Diamond
The name is derived from the Marquise of Pompadour, for whom King Louis XIV of France allegedly had a stone fashioned to resemble what he considered her perfectly shaped mouth. Because marquise diamonds are long and narrow, they can also create the illusion of greater size. Carat for carat, the marquise diamond has one of the largest crown surface areas of any diamond shape, making it a good choice when trying to maximize the perceived size of a diamond. Like the oval diamond, the marquise cut diamond's elongated shape can make the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer.
Marquise diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
Personal preference should dictate how narrow or fat of a marquise diamond you choose, although a length to width ratio of 1.75 -2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut. Symmetry is very important in marquise cuts. The two end points should align with each other, and the right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an off kilter look in the final setting. For this reason, excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.
Marquise diamonds posses some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
Personal preference should dictate how narrow or fat of a marquise diamond you choose, although a length to width ratio of 1.75 -2.15 is considered the classic marquise cut. Symmetry is very important in marquise cuts. The two end points should align with each other, and the right and left sides should form a near mirror image. Even a slight misalignment in the points can result in an off kilter look in the final setting. For this reason, excellent or very good symmetry is strongly recommended.
The Amore Pear Diamond
The modified brilliant-cut pear shaped diamond is a combination of a round and a marquise shape, with a tapered point on one end. The diamond is always worn with the narrow end pointing toward the hand of the wearer. Like marquise and oval cuts, the pear shaped diamond comes in a variety of slim to wide cuts, and has the added benefit of making the wearer's fingers appear longer and slimmer.
Ideally, a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat, but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough stone in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off or squatty appearance.
While the length to width ratio of classic pear shaped diamonds is 1.40-1.70, personal preference will again dictate choice. The shape preference may also be affected by the diamond's eventual setting: A narrow pear diamond is ideal for dangle earrings, while a wider shape might be preferred for a solitaire ring.
Ideally, a pear shaped diamond should possess excellent or very good symmetry. The point should line up with the apex of the rounded end. The shoulders and wings (the upper and lower curves on the right and left side of the diamond) should form uniform, symmetrical curves, with no straight edges. The rounded top should not appear narrow or squat, but like a semi-circle. In a misguided effort to add weight to a diamond (by incorporating more of the rough stone in the final cut) cutters may give the diamond added girth near the point or top, giving the diamond a squared off or squatty appearance.
While the length to width ratio of classic pear shaped diamonds is 1.40-1.70, personal preference will again dictate choice. The shape preference may also be affected by the diamond's eventual setting: A narrow pear diamond is ideal for dangle earrings, while a wider shape might be preferred for a solitaire ring.
The Amore Cushion Diamond
The cushion cut diamond once referred to as old mine cut) combines a square cut with rounded corners, much like a pillow (hence the name). This classic cut has been around for almost 200 years, and for the first century of its existence was the most popular diamond shape (similar to round cut today). Until the early 20th century, the cushion cut diamond was the de facto diamond shape.
Traditional cushion cut diamonds return light in a chunkier pattern than modern cuts. Combined with the enlarged culet (which was considered desirable for the pattern created when viewed through the table), this created a distinctive look that is prized today among dealers in antique diamonds.
The standards for cushion cut vary more than most other shapes, and personal taste will dictate choice. While generally may have less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion cut diamonds often have better fire, which is part of their appeal. Modern cushion cuts tend to have one of three basic pavilion facet patterns. The third pattern has an extra row of facets on the pavilion. These modified cuts tend to have a "crushed ice" or needle like facet pattern, more similar to a radiant cut than a traditional cushion cut.
Traditional cushion cut diamonds return light in a chunkier pattern than modern cuts. Combined with the enlarged culet (which was considered desirable for the pattern created when viewed through the table), this created a distinctive look that is prized today among dealers in antique diamonds.
The standards for cushion cut vary more than most other shapes, and personal taste will dictate choice. While generally may have less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion cut diamonds often have better fire, which is part of their appeal. Modern cushion cuts tend to have one of three basic pavilion facet patterns. The third pattern has an extra row of facets on the pavilion. These modified cuts tend to have a "crushed ice" or needle like facet pattern, more similar to a radiant cut than a traditional cushion cut.
The Amore Emerald Diamond
The unique look of the emerald cut diamond is created by the step cuts of its pavilion and its large, open table. Instead of the sparkle of a brilliant-cut, emerald cut diamonds produce a hall-of-mirrors effect, with the interplay of light and dark planes. While less fiery, the long lines and dramatic flashes of light give the emerald cut an elegant appeal. The shape was originally developed for the cutting of emeralds, thus the name.
Emerald cut diamonds vary from nearly square to a narrow rectangle. The classic emerald cut diamond has a length to width ratio of around 1.50. If you prefer the look of the square emerald cut diamond, be sure to consider the asscher cut as well.
Emerald cut diamonds vary from nearly square to a narrow rectangle. The classic emerald cut diamond has a length to width ratio of around 1.50. If you prefer the look of the square emerald cut diamond, be sure to consider the asscher cut as well.
The Amore Asscher Diamond
The asscher cut diamond was first produced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Holland, famous at the time for cutting the world's largest rough stone (the Cullinan, at 3,106 carats). Asscher cut diamonds originally peaked in popularity in the 1920's, and could recently be found only in antique jewelry shops. Around 2002, one hundred years after the first asscher cut diamond was created, the shape began to make a comeback, spurred on by cut modifications that gave the shape more brilliance than traditional asscher cut diamonds.
The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette.
The classic asscher cut diamond is a square (with a length to width ratio of 1.00); however they are often found in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye.
The modern asscher cut diamond is similar to a square emerald cut, usually with larger step facets, a higher crown, and a smaller table. This combination often produces more brilliance than the emerald cut. A well cut asscher will appear to have concentric squares as you look down through the table, the result of proper positioning of the pavilion facets underneath. Like the emerald cut, the asscher cut has cropped corners; however, because an asscher is square, the cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape. Once mounted in a four prong setting, the diamond maintains its unique shape within a square silhouette.
The classic asscher cut diamond is a square (with a length to width ratio of 1.00); however they are often found in slightly rectangular shapes as well. Any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye.
The Amore Radiant Diamond
The radiant cut diamond is the first square cut (the second being the princess) to have a complete brilliant-cut facet pattern applied to both the crown and pavilion, creating a vibrant and lively square diamond. First popular in the 1980's, the cropped corner square shape of the radiant is a nice bridge between a cushion and a princess cut, and for that reason looks beautiful set with both rounded or square cornered diamonds.
In longer (more rectangular) radiant cut diamonds, a bow-tie effect is more likely (although not as common as in oval, marquise, and pear cuts), varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
There are diverse preferences when it comes to shape in radiant cut diamonds, from a perfectly square 1.00 length to width ratio (any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye), to a more traditional rectangle.
In longer (more rectangular) radiant cut diamonds, a bow-tie effect is more likely (although not as common as in oval, marquise, and pear cuts), varying from near invisible to severe. The visibility of a bow-tie effect cannot be ascertained by reviewing the diamond certificate or dimensions, but only upon visual inspection.
There are diverse preferences when it comes to shape in radiant cut diamonds, from a perfectly square 1.00 length to width ratio (any ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to the naked eye), to a more traditional rectangle.
The Amore Heart Diamond
The modified brilliant-cut heart shaped diamond is a unique and unmistakable symbol of love. Heart shaped diamonds are very popular in solitaire pendants as well as rings. When choosing a heart, symmetry is a very important characteristic, since it is critical that the two halves of the heart are identical. The cleft (between the two lobes) should be sharp and distinct, and the wings (the sides as they curve down to the point) should have a very slightly rounded shape.
Heart shaped diamonds come in a variety of silhouettes, from narrow to fat. The choice of a particular silhouette should be dictated by personal preference, though the length to width ratio of a classic heart shaped diamond is approximately 1.00. For hearts that are to be set in pendants, buyers may prefer a slightly narrow cut (1.05 - 1.15), while for hearts set in a solitaire ring, a slightly wide cut (.85 - 1.00) may be most appealing.
Heart shaped diamonds come in a variety of silhouettes, from narrow to fat. The choice of a particular silhouette should be dictated by personal preference, though the length to width ratio of a classic heart shaped diamond is approximately 1.00. For hearts that are to be set in pendants, buyers may prefer a slightly narrow cut (1.05 - 1.15), while for hearts set in a solitaire ring, a slightly wide cut (.85 - 1.00) may be most appealing.